Crocheted Baby Doll Bed Set

Categories: Gifts, Kid Friendly, Doll, Crochet

Crochet a basket style bed to go along with your crocheted baby doll, and make a little blanket and pillow to match. This little bed set along with the baby doll would be the perfect Christmas gift for a little girl who loves baby dolls, or a fun gift for a soon-to-be big brother or sister. The basket is made holding two strands of yarn together to make it more sturdy and has Stiffen heavyweight interfacing in the base to keep it flat. The little blanket is a simple granny square and it can be made to match the doll and the bed or it is a great project for scraps. The little pillow is made with single crochet and stuffed with Poly-Fil fiber fill. This patter is for the bed, blanket, and pillow only. The baby doll pattern is also available on Fairfield World, you can find it here.

What you need to make this project

Materials
Stiffen One Sided Fusible Interfacing
Poly-Fil Premium Fiber Fill
Supplies
2 large (7oz) skeins worsted weight yarn for the bed (sample made with Red Heart Super Saver Orchid)
5 colors of worsted weight yarn for the pillow and blanket (sample made with Red Heart Super Saver Pale Plum,Jade, Orchid, Real Teal, and Dark Orchid)
H crochet hook
stitch markers or scraps of yarn
yarn needle
scissors

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Instructions

Step One

Blanket:

The blanket is a simple granny square with a picot edging. I chose to change colors every 2 rounds and used a total of 4 colors for the granny square and 1 more for the edging. You could use as few or as many colors as you would like. It would look good all in one color, in one color with a contrasting border, you could change colors every row, or use 2 colors and alternate doing one or two rows in one color then the other and then switching back to the first. I will list in the instructions which colors I used and when I changed but feel free to play around with the colors and have fun.

Color A: Pale Plum

Color B: Jade

Color C: Orchid

Color D: Real Teal

Color E: Dark Orchid

Instructions:

With Color A ch 4 and join with a slip stitch to make a ring

Round 1: ch 5 (counts as first dc + ch 2 corner), 3 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, ch 2, 2 dc in ring, sl st to beginning ch 3

Round 2: sl st into ch space, ch 5, 3 dc in same ch space, ch 1, [(3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in corner space, ch 1] 3 times, 2 dc in same space as beginning ch, sl st to beginning ch3

Change to Color B

Round 3: sl st into ch space, ch 5, 3 dc in same ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1 [(3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1] 3 times, 2 dc in same space as beginning ch, sl st to beginning ch3

Round 4: sl st into ch space, ch 5, 3 dc in same ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1 [(3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch sp, ch 1] 3 times, 2 dc in same space as beginning ch, sl st to beginning ch3

Change to Color C

Round 5: sl st into ch space, ch 5, 3 dc in same ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1 [(3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1] 3 times, 2 dc in same space as beginning ch, sl st to beginning ch3

Round 6: sl st into ch space, ch 5, 3 dc in same ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1 [(3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1] 3 times, 2 dc in same space as beginning ch, sl st to beginning ch3

Change to Color D

Round 7: sl st into ch space, ch 5, 3 dc in same ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch sp, ch 1 [(3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch sp, ch 1] 3 times, 2 dc in same space as beginning ch, sl st to beginning ch3

Round 7: sl st into ch space, ch 5, 3 dc in same ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1 [(3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in corner space, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1, 3 dc in ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch space, ch 1] 3 times, 2 dc in same space as beginning ch, sl st to beginning ch3

Change to Color D

Round 8: ch 1, work 1 sc in the the top of each dc and in each ch space, work 5 dc in each corner, sl st to first sc

Round 9: ch 1, sc in 2 stitches, work picot (ch 2, sl stitch in side of first ch), ch 2, work picot, repeat around

Weave in all ends

  • Pillow Stuffing
  • Pillow 2

Step Two

Pillow:

The pillow is made by single crocheting 2 small rectangles. Then those 2 are stitched together and stuffed. I used Dark Orchid to make my pillow.

Instructions:

Make 2-

ch 17

Row 1: sc in 2nd stitch from hook and each stitch to the end

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in each stitch to the end

Rows 3-14: repeat row 2

Place two rectangles together and sc around the outside, working one sc in each stitch along top, bottom, and sides, and 3 sc in each corner, when you have stitched around 3 sides begin stuffing and continue to stuff as you stitch the last side closed, slip st to the first sc, finish off, weave in ends

 

  • Bed Base
  • Handles
  • Mark Centers
  • Making Hood

Step Three

Basket:

The basket is made by holding 2 strands of yarn together as you work, this gives you a thicker, sturdier fabric. The base is an oval shape, you will crochet 2 ovals, do not cut the yarn after the 2nd oval, you will use that to continue working around the bases to create the sides. You will not join after rounds on the base but you will join the rounds on the sides. I used Orchid for my basket.

Instructions:

working with 2 strands of yarn ch 13

Round 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch, sc in the next 10 stitches, work 3 sc in the last stitch turning as you work so that you can continue working back along the opposite side of your starting ch, sc in next 10 stitches, sc 2 in last stitch (same ch as first stitch) (26 sc)

Round 2: 2 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in next 10 stitches, 2 sc in each of the next 3 stitches, 1 sc in next 10 stitches, 2 sc in each of next 2 stitches (32 sc)

Round 3: 1 sc in first stitch, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 11, 2 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc, 1 sc in 11, 2 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc (38 sc)

Round 4: 1 sc in first 2 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 12, 2 sc, 1 sc in 2, 2 sc, 1 sc in 2, 2 sc, 1 sc in 12, 2 sc, 1 sc in 2, 2 sc (44 sc)

Round 5: 1 sc in first 3 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 13, 2 sc, 1 sc in 3, 2 sc, 1 sc in 3, 2 sc, 1 sc in 13, 2 sc, 1 sc in 3, 2 sc (50 sc)

Round 6: 1 sc in first 4 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 14, 2 sc, 1 sc in 4, 2 sc, 1 sc in 4, 2 sc, 1 sc in 14, 2 sc, 1 sc in 4, 2 sc (56 sc)

Round 7: 1 sc in first 5 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 15, 2 sc, 1 sc in 5, 2 sc, 1 sc in 5, 2 sc, 1 sc in 15, 2 sc, 1 sc in 5, 2 sc (62 sc)

Round 8: 1 sc in first 6 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 16, 2 sc, 1 sc in 6, 2 sc, 1 sc in 6, 2 sc, 1 sc in 16, 2 sc, 1 sc in 6, 2 sc (68 sc)

Round 9: 1 sc in first 7 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 17, 2 sc, 1 sc in 7, 2 sc, 1 sc in 7, 2 sc, 1 sc in 17, 2 sc, 1 sc in 7, 2 sc (74 sc)

Round 10: 1 sc in first 8 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 18, 2 sc, 1 sc in 8, 2 sc, 1 sc in 8, 2 sc, 1 sc in 18, 2 sc, 1 sc in 8, 2 sc (80 sc)

Round 11: 1 sc in first 9 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 19, 2 sc, 1 sc in 9, 2 sc, 1 sc in 9, 2 sc, 1 sc in 19, 2 sc, 1 sc in 9, 2 sc (86 sc)

Round 12: 1 sc in first 10 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 20, 2 sc, 1 sc in 10, 2 sc, 1 sc in 10, 2 sc, 1 sc in 20, 2 sc, 1 sc in 10, 2 sc (92 sc)

Round 13: 1 sc in first 11 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 21, 2 sc, 1 sc in 11, 2 sc, 1 sc in 11, 2 sc, 1 sc in 21, 2 sc, 1 sc in 11, 2 sc (98 sc)

Round 14: 1 sc in first 12 stitches, 2 sc in next, 1 sc in next 22, 2 sc, 1 sc in 12, 2 sc, 1 sc in 12, 2 sc, 1 sc in 22, 2 sc, 1 sc in 12, 2 sc (104 sc)

Cut yarn on the first oval, then make a second exactly like the first.

Cut 2 ovals from Stiffen that fit just inside the crocheted oval, make sure the outside stitches are not covered so that you can work through them.

Layer the ovals – 1 crocheted oval, 2 stiffen ovals, 1 crocheted oval- the stiffen has a scratchy side that is fusible, you won’t iron it to the yarn (it will melt the acrylic yarn that I used) but if you place it scratchy side against the yarn it will kind of stick to the yarn and stay in place.

Once you have the ovals layered you will begin stitching the sides of the basket, work through both layers of the base on the first row.

Round 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each stitch around being sure to work through both layers, sl st to top of beginning ch 3 (104 dc)

Round 2-6: ch 3, dc in each stitch around, sl st to beginning ch 3 (104 dc)

Before the next round you need to find and mark the center points of your basket so you no where to place the handles and hood portion of the basket. First find the center of the top of the basket where you will put the hood part (either one of the short ends of the oval) and put a stitch marker in that stitch, then find the center of the other short end and mark that stitch (there should be 51 stitches between each of the stitch markers. Now find the center point on the long sides and mark those stitches (there should now be 25 stitches between each of your markers)

Now you need to mark where your handles are going to go on the long sides. Counting from the center marker on the long side, put a stitch marker in the 4th stitch on each side of those markers. Those 9 stitches are where you will put the handle.

Round 7: ch 3, dc in each stitch until you reach the first stitch marker on the long side, skip the 9 stitches between marker, ch 9, dc in stitch after stitch marker, contitnue to work dc around stopping when you reach the markers on the other side, skip those 9, ch 9, dc in the stitch after marker, dc around the rest of the way around, sl st to the first dc (86 dc)

Finish off

Decide which of the short ends is the top of your basket where you will put the hood, count three stitches from the top edge of the handle and place a stitch marker

Row 1: Attatch yarn in th 4th stitch past the handle (stitch after the marker), ch 3, dc in each stitch until you reach the stitch marker on the opposite side (37 dc)

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, dc in next stitch and each stitch around (37 dc)

Row 3: ch 3, turn, dc in next stitch and each stitch around (37 dc)

Row 4: ch 3, turn, [dc2tog, dc in next 5] 5 times, dc in last stitch (32 dc)

Row 5: ch 3, turn, [dc2tog, dc in next 4] 5 times, dc in last stitch (27 dc)

Row 6: ch 3, turn, [dc2tog, dc in next 3] 5 times, dc in last stitch (22 dc)

Row 7: ch 3, turn, [dc2tog, dc in next 2] 5 times, dc in last stitch (17 dc)

Row 8: ch 3, turn, [dc2tog, dc in next 1] 5 times, dc in last stitch (12 dc)

Row 9: ch 3, turn, dc2tog 5 times, dc in last stitch, slip stitch closed (7 dc)

Cut yarn, finish off

Join yarn anywhere along the edge of the basket, ch 1, sc evenly around the outside edge of the basket, work in each dc and ch on the handle and 2 stitches in the side of each dc of the hood portion, sl st to the first sc, finish off, weave in ends